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Dining in Polanco of Mexico City

Walking into a covered patio spilling delightfully out onto the street, only 3 small steps transport you to a version of Italy.

Four ladies kackle in the corner, ignoring the No Fumar (smoking) sign to dutifully light each other's Capri's with the tables candle, all without missing their gossips beat.

Tables are outfitted with a waist high rack to maintain the dignity of the ladies Louis Viouton purses and Gucci scarfs. There most certainly a Versace something in the mix of accessories.

A handsome maitre'd, specked for the fashion runway, greets you with a formal handshake and requests your name.

The restrooms have an old world charm with a standing sink in an antique furniture piece with an ornate mirror to check the usual. It's antique white and resembles the cleanliness and order I've come to adore in the establishment.

A bar circles the corner and begs my attention but I press on to admire the details of the square patterned ceilings and white paneled walls, perfectly brought together by ornate art and a grayish colored wooden floor with panels layed vertically to the walk path, making you take notice to all the kinesthetic textures.

A young server named Caesar is commissioned to my table and together, we manage to communicate in each other's languages, adding in plenty of hand gestures to assist us along.

After a Perrier with lime is poured, I order the carpaccio di tonno. I's not long before the cured, tender meat is placed before me in a flowery bouquet across the plate, topped with shaved Parmesan and the greenery of arugula, all brought together on a virgin olive oil and a hint of lime. A cherry tomato elegantly rests in the middle, shining of its glaze.

My fellow diners of four to my side consume a Neapolitan pizza with a crust that looked brick oven baked and most certainly hand tossed. The wine selection was adequate for the diverse selection of plates and all the patrons raised their glasses with the celebratory clinks to follow. Delightful to anyone's ears with smiles to follow.

My second entrees is the classic lasagna. It's prepared as expected with great texture to the meats, perfectly cooked noodles, a slightly sweet marinara and freshly grated Parmesan atop. What made the classic dish slightly different was that it rested in a four cheese sauce with sprinkles of green parsley. It made the dish wonderfully rich in flavor and, in spite of my efforts, I was unable to finish the portion.

Ignoring the white flag of my full stomach, I soldier on and order Caesar's favorite dessert, Cordelion. Just the name alone is regal and the moist chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream below is decadent. He pours a chocolate sauce atop yet another hardened chocolate top holding fruit that melts and drops to the floor of the fish bowl that houses this creative concoction. In one word it is: Doci.

Loggia is a delightful establishment with wonderful staff, properly prepared food and selections that will bring you to the world of Old Italy with a flare true to only Mexico City.

4 stars. But...that's because I never give 5.

Buen Provecho. Bon appetite. Enjoy. Whatever you prefer.

Robin Reed

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